Embroidery vs. Screen Printing: The Apparel & Fabric Guide

Author: Textile Specialist, StationeryWorks Malaysia
Date: November 08, 2024
Category: Technical Guide
Reading Time: 9 mins

When it comes to branding fabric items—whether it's corporate polo tees, caps, canvas tote bags, or laptop sleeves—you generally have two main choices: Embroidery or Screen Printing. Both are industry standards, but they produce vastly different results. One uses thread to stitch a design; the other uses ink to print it. Choosing the wrong one can lead to a logo that puckers, cracks, or simply looks out of place. In this guide, we compare the two methods to help you decide which is best for your fabric merchandise.

Embroidery: The Premium Choice

Embroidery involves using a computer-controlled machine to stitch colored threads directly into the fabric to recreate your logo.

• The Look: It has a 3D, textured feel. The threads catch the light, giving it a high-quality, professional sheen.
• Durability: Indestructible. The stitching will likely outlast the garment itself. It won't fade, crack, or peel in the wash.
• Best For:
  • Polo Shirts & Jackets: The standard for corporate uniforms. It looks professional and withstands heavy washing.
  • Caps: The structure of a cap holds embroidery perfectly. 3D Puff embroidery can add extra impact.
  • Heavy Bags: Laptop bags and backpacks.
• Limitations:
  • Small Text: Threads have thickness. Text smaller than 5mm becomes illegible blobs.
  • Gradients: You cannot "fade" thread colors. You have to pick solid colors.
  • Thin Fabric: Heavy stitching can pull and pucker thin t-shirt fabric. Do not embroider on 160gsm cotton tees; it will look bad.

Screen Printing (Silkscreen): The Versatile Choice

Screen printing involves pushing ink through a mesh screen (stencil) onto the fabric. Each color requires a separate screen.

• The Look: Flat and smooth. It merges with the fabric (especially water-based inks) or sits slightly on top (plastisol inks). It looks crisp and modern.
• Durability: Good, but not eternal. Over time and many washes, the ink may crack or fade, especially if washed in hot water.
• Best For:
  • T-Shirts: Large designs on the front or back of a cotton tee.
  • Tote Bags: Canvas bags with large slogans or illustrations.
  • Lanyards: See our lanyard guide.
• Limitations:
  • Cost per Color: You pay a setup fee for each color. A 6-color logo is expensive.
  • Minimums: Due to setup time, it's not viable for < 20 units.

Heat Transfer (DTF / Vinyl): The Modern Alternative

For complex, multi-color logos or small runs, we often use Digital Transfer (DTF). The design is printed on a film and heat-pressed onto the fabric.

• Pros: Full color, photo quality, no per-color setup fee. Great for gradients.
• Cons: Can feel like a "plastic patch" on the shirt. Less breathable. Durability is lower than embroidery.

Cost Comparison

• Embroidery: Cost is based on Stitch Count (size/complexity of logo). Number of colors usually doesn't matter (up to 12 colors is standard).
• Screen Printing: Cost is based on Number of Colors and Number of Locations. Size matters less.

Which Should You Choose?

Scenario A: The CEO's Golf Shirt

• Verdict: Embroidery. It looks expensive and classy. A printed logo on a Lacoste-style polo looks cheap.

Scenario B: The 5km Fun Run T-Shirt

• Verdict: Screen Printing. You need a large logo on the chest and sponsor logos on the back. The fabric is light dri-fit. Printing is cost-effective and breathable.

Scenario C: The Canvas Tote Bag

• Verdict: Screen Printing for large graphics. Embroidery for a small, subtle brand logo on a heavy canvas boat bag.

Conclusion

Fabric dictates the method. Heavy fabric loves embroidery; light fabric loves print. Professionalism loves embroidery; promotion loves print. At StationeryWorks, we have both multi-head embroidery machines and automatic screen printing carousels in-house. We can advise you on the best method to ensure your logo looks sharp, wash after wash.